Briolettes

Pronounced: bree-oh-let
Function: noun
Etymology: French
Date: 1865

What does it look like? Any gemstone drop that is an oval or pear shaped cut with triangular facets covering its entire surface, would qualify as a briolette. And boy are they hard to cut!

How is it used? There are two ways to hold on to a briolette. One is to drill straight down into it from the top and glue a cap with post into it. The second is to drill the top sideways. Each method has its advantages and drawbacks. You can view a briolette from all angles which is why it is so popular as an earring component. Here at The Bead Shop, our favorite way to "capture" a briolette is to use the triangular wire-wrap method.

The briolette’s claim to fame. The earliest briolette ever found dates back to the time of the Crusades, between 1122 and 1200. It is called the Briolette of India. Briolettes have been included in crowns of the Austrian dynasty, Romanovs of Russia, Crown Jewels of Iran. Napoleon gave a diamond briolette necklace to the Empress Marie Louise. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis owned a pair of red tourmaline briolette earrings with amethysts. Other notable owners of briolette include Louis IV, Marie Antoinette and Henry Philip Hope (Hope diamond).

The briolette has had a roller coaster ride in terms of popularity. In the early 17th century they were all the rage. The clear stones were reminiscent of chandeliers and aristocratic social gatherings. By the end of the century and the oncoming industrial revolution, people’s interest shifted to more modern cuts. It came back into the limelight in the Victorian and Art Deco eras, then disappeared again. Today the briolette is back, this time also appearing as opaque stones. There are a variety of shapes from bulbous, to elongated and sometimes flattened.